Cleaning House

So I have been on this kick of cleaning up projects, finishing old ones, and making my space more workable.

I feel it is this great nesting.

I'm not sure what the future holds, I'm really hoping that it is something fabby...and unimaginable. I really feel that bras are my calling, that I am on the path intended for me.

I have R&D that is kicking my butt a bit...that is nothing new, I always stress about R&D because I want perfection for my clients...when all they want a 1st specimen. I love the R&D because it makes me stretch my brain...but I am ready to spend time on my own projects again.

Can someone tell me,"get over it" already?

I am working on one of the biggest bras I have ever made. 36 Z

You heard me.

This is a fete of engineering.

There are times that working on this bra I have cried. Its a difficult pattern, with a complex apex.

I love what it do, and I hope she likes it.

*pics of garment on Betty to be posted as soon as we are done*

Bras for everybody

Should I

Ive been thinking that I would apply to Project Runway. I want the national exposure, and I feel as if I need a challenge, a push to extend my designs. I do have fear, fear that I am not good enough, that I'm too awkward, or that I think too much of my own skill.

I have thought a lot about success, and what it means. I once said that I was a success in my life if I found a partner that loved me as deeply as I love them, that some skill I performed could change someones life for the better, and that I did not disappoint my parents.

I think I've done those things, but I still feel a drive to push further.

The love of my life is a story for another day, but skill and approval are at the root of my drive.

I'm now ready for this next chapter, the one where I can help change many lives for the better, and where my parents can benefit from my success. They have worked so hard, loved so much, and given so selflessly...I just want to do something wonderful for them.

The meaning of success has changed for me. I want more from my success, I want to give more because of it. Would being on a show make me a success? No. But, it would challenge me in a way I have not been able to implement myself, and I can learn from it...and the exposure would not suck.

Get your bra on

When you have your bra on, lean over and position the underwire under your breast tissue...and shake your breasts a bit into the cups.


Next, the straps should not hold the majority of your breast weight!!! I can easily put 2 fingers under the strap and there is no visible pressure.

Check the back, notice that the hook and eye can be pulled a bit....but remains very firm.

This is a a GREAT fit!

Wire Chart

Wire selection is based off of a wire size....what does this mean?

A wire number designation is based on what the volume would be on a 34 band size.

A 34 wire is used in a 34B bra, or a person who is measured at 34" underbust and 36" at nipple line would need a 34 wire for the volume of breast.

A wire chart is useful in understanding volume of breast only. You will NEVER find this info on your bra, but consider this your bra's back story.

This chart displays the largest underwire I have worked with (72). I would not normally recommend an underwire past a 52 wire.

Decrease in band

Cup volume is a just a ratio, wire chart to follow. So we decrease the band size to 34, but we want to keep that volume the same. So, this is a 34DD. Notice that there is a bit of gap in the upper cup creasing from nipple line to the strap. This is our first indication that the band might still be a bit loose.







Check the back, notice how easy the powermesh pulls away from the body at the hook and eye. You really don't want it this loose. Promise.






Now here I have pulled the powermesh at the back so that the cups are pulled to the chest wall with the proper tension of powermesh around the body.




The breasts now fill the cups, the volume of the cups allow each breast to *rest* in the cup.

Bad fit part 2

Ok, lets take a look at the fit on the front of this same bra size (36D) from part 1.
Due to the rise of the powermesh in the back the cups in the front have slack and are not filled with the breast tissue. The lower portion of the breast is pushing under the wire and lower cup as the too loose band is allowing breast to remain unsupported.

This side view shows the rise of the powermesh in the back, and the lowered breast position in the front.

If your bra looks like this, chances are your band size is tooooooooooo big!

~Megan Summerville